How Has Denim Production Changed?
Vintage Levi's are highly sought after for a reason. From the iconic 501s to the classic 550s, these jeans are built to last. Denim from the 80s and 90s was a different quality to what we see today. Back then, Levi's used heavier, more durable fabric that could stand up to the wear and tear of daily life. These jeans weren't just fashion items; they were workwear, built to withstand tough conditions.
Today's denim, while more varied in style, often lacks the same durability. Modern jeans frequently incorporate elastane for stretch, which, while comfortable, can weaken the fabric over time.
At Don’t Touch My Jeans, we believe that great fashion never goes out of style—especially when it comes to denim. Denim, particularly vintage Levi’s, has a timeless appeal that transcends trends. But how do you keep something timeless while making it modern? The answer lies in upcycling, and no one understands this better than Guadalupe, a talented Madrid-based designer, seamstress and the founder of Bardo who collaborates with us on transforming old jeans into fresh, stylish garments. In this post, we’re excited to share an interview with Guadalupe.
Upcycling: Breathing New Life into Old Denim
Upcycling is about taking something old and making it new again, but with a twist. When Guadalupe and our team at Don’t Touch My Jeans receive a batch of worn-out Levi’s, we see potential. These jeans might have been destined for the landfill, but instead, they’re transformed into unique, modern garments that retain the character of the original denim. Vintage Levi's maintain their structure and integrity, making them perfect candidates for upcycling.
Q: Could you tell us a little about yourself and how you started working with denim garments?
Guadalupe: Since I graduated in design, I have always had a vision of fashion focused on slow and on-demand production. Although I worked in various sectors related to clothing and the textile industry, I think I was always looking for ways to do things a little better. When I moved to Madrid, I was a bit disconnected during the first year until I met my business partner, Ana. We both wanted to do something, and that’s how Bardo was born, where we started working with denim by reusing it as raw material.
Q: What are the main differences you notice between a pair of vintage jeans from the 80s, 90s (or early 2000s) and new jeans today? Visually, what characteristics make vintage jeans stand out from more recent models?
Guadalupe: I think jeans from the past had excellent quality. Let’s remember that denim was originally created to be durable, given the kind of use it was intended for before becoming a classic fashion staple. In the 80s and 90s, denim garments were still being made with quality that has diminished over the decades due to industrialization and increased demand and production.
In the past, the fabric quality was more durable and firmer. If you compare jeans from the 80s with current ones, you’ll notice that the thickness, texture, and fiber of the fabric are very different. The jeans made today contain elastane, which already makes the fabric less durable because with use, the elastane stretches and breaks the fibers, causing them to disintegrate more easily.
While today, in terms of design, you can find countless models that can replicate more vintage designs, by touching the garment and observing the construction details, you can identify if it is old or not. Some things that can help are checking the composition label, ensuring that it does not create pilling when rubbed, and that the fabric does not stretch out of shape. Also, observe the seams and finishes, and finally check the wear, as that will more precisely date its origin.
Q: In terms of materials and manufacturing techniques, what has changed in denim production from the 80s/90s until now? Do you think the quality of denim has improved or worsened over time? Why?
Guadalupe: I believe many things have changed. Today's productions are undoubtedly of poorer quality, which is reflected in the finishes, the materials used, etc. This is due to the overproduction and capitalization of the industry. While some brands continue to make higher-quality products or seek alternatives, most follow the rhythms set by today’s markets. They no longer focus on durability and resistance in a garment but rather want you to buy a new one season after season. Therefore, to meet demand, they seek to cut costs.
Guadalupe: The first thing we do is think about the design. Once we have it, we dismantle the garments and try to optimize the parts for the new use we are giving them.
Guadalupe: Because we need to find alternatives to overproduction that help contribute to development without affecting our natural resources.
Q: How do your customers perceive the value of upcycled jeans compared to new ones? What advice would you give to someone who wants to start incorporating vintage or upcycled jeans into their wardrobe?
Guadalupe: To look at and observe the quality of the garment, the durability it may have, and above all, to investigate where it comes from. It’s always better to buy from a small merchant, an independent, or a local designer. There are many brands that offer this type of garments or services and are still chains that jump on trends, so it's worth doing some research before buying.
This conversation with Guadalupe highlights the importance of preserving the quality and history of denim through upcycling. Together, we’re dedicated to creating garments that not only look great but also tell a story and contribute to a more sustainable future.
Explore our denim collection and be part of the change today!